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Literally, the floodgates opened to a series of lessons learnt early in life. To relive that history and savor the experience we set out by foot in Lisbon on a nippy September morning.
We stood at the bronze life-size statue of Mahatma Gandhi at the top of Avenida de India. It seemed strange seeing a half-naked man with a pocket-watch dangling by his side, walking briskly with a cane in hand in a country where everyone was warmly clad or in the ubiquitous jeans.
But then Portugal has several close links to India. Nearby was the Avenida Mahatma Gandhi or MG Road, a Hindu temple of Radha Krishna, Casa de Goa and posters of a local music and dance group with a strong Goan flavor, Ekvat.
We set out on foot to discover the joys and sights of the riverside capital. As we walked toward the Tagus and the sea, beautiful and elegant homes of diplomats and embassies in verdant settings flanked us. At one bungalow, the Indian tricolor fluttered cheerfully in the morning breeze.
Around us, the palpable presence of Dom Vasco da Gama was everywhere. While Indian schoolchildren grow up reading about the Portuguese explorer who discovered India in 1498 (see box), here a grateful nation celebrates him for putting it solidly on the world's map. Easily the brightest light in the Voyages of Discovery. The neighborhood that we were traversing, Santa Maria de Belém or just Belém (Portuguese for Bethlehem), packs many tributes to this much-loved son of the land.
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| Charming Electricos clank through narrow cobblestone roads. | We reached the harbor where his epic voyage began. A blue sky met the silvery water of the calm estuary this morning. Yet it was anything but that in his era. A time when the mouth of the tiny seafaring nation's capital bustled with frenzied activity: cannon fire and furious military action, returning mercantile caravels triumphant or in shambles, brave young warrior-explorers setting forth grandly to unknown lands. Even as one vessel berthed at the harbor with all manner of wondrous goods and news of lands conquered, another was setting forth to bring in more riches.
Discussing the changes da Gama and the Portuguese wrought on India's western coastline and its impact on the rest of India, we reached the granite stairs of the fortified lighthouse, Torre de Belem.
This structure was completed 21 years after da Gama's historic sailing. Declared a World Heritage Site, the Tower meant to guard the entrance to the city incorporates fine Moorish elements, elaborate sculptures and maritime motifs in its design.
The Tower is a classic example of medieval advanced defense technology. It is strategically located at the entrance to Lisbon harbor and has facilities for artillery and heavy military equipment. A stone rope encircles the building. A relief of an Indian rhinoceros, inspired by the woodcut by German painter and print-maker, Albrecht Durer, on the outer wall is the first sculpted representation of the exotic animal in Europe.
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| Torre de Belem in Lisbon | People setting out on sea journeys invariably came to the Tower's terrace to pray at the statue of the Virgin and the Child. In the old days, a popular plea - besides "journey mercies" - was for the deliverance of the pungent black substance known as the Indian pepper.
Europeans enjoyed their sunny-side up eggs and bland meat dishes with a sprinkle of pepper. Wines were enlivened with it. Royalty could not do without it. Ordinary homes came to view it as a necessity. The spice, it was said, helped to disguise the salty cured meat on the turn. Others said it had therapeutic benefits. Whatever its merits and the eating mores of the times, one thing was certain: pepper did not come easily. It was pricey - costing close to a week's wages.
Medieval mercantile merchants secured their supplies of Malabar and Tellicherry peppers from Venetian and Arab intermediaries. With improved navigational techniques and shipbuilding methods, the Portuguese stole a march on their neighbors when they became the first Europeans to access high-grade pepper directly from source.
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| Advertisements for English coaching classes are everywhere. | A short distance away from the Tower, along the waterway parallel to Avenida de Brasilia, is the Discoveries Monument and Jeronimos Monastery. Both monuments celebrate Vasco de Gama's achievements.
We walked leisurely on that wind-swept morning, pausing at the mounted relic of a WWI aircraft. This seaplane, Lusitania, with its two pilots Gago Coutinho and Sacadura Cabral, lifted into the skies in 1922 and flew non-stop to Rio de Janeiro, to complete a historic, first ever air crossing of the South Atlantic.
At Padrao dos Descobrimentos or the Discoveries Monument we stood taking in this stunning architectural marvel. Built in 1960 to commemorate the 500th death anniversary of "the brain and enabler of the discoveries," Prince Henry the Navigator, it is a must-see site. The building is in the form of a three-sailed ship ready to depart. On it are gorgeous giant white sculptures of King Manuel I carrying an armillary sphere, poet Camões holding verses from The Lusiads, Vasco da Gama, and other explorers, crusaders, cartographers, and cosmographers.
Inside the World Heritage monument, is a huge hall with an impressive array of exhibits of royalty, explorers, scientists, ship-builders and cartographers - all of which evoke memorable history lessons. The adjoining auditorium screens films on modern and historic Lisbon. After the viewing, an elevator whisked us to the top, to the terrace for a breath-taking view of Lisbon's legendary seven hills.
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| Palacia de Pena | Around us, were the city's many landmarks. In the distance is a Golden Gate look-alike, the 25th of April suspension bridge. Beside it was a giant statue of Christ, Cristo Rei. In front of us were rows of red-tiled sloping house-roofs. Adding further romance to the setting, below was a charming Eletrico clanking through narrow cobblestone roads.
It is easy to understand why Lisbon was considered the first true megapolis of the world. It was the capital of a vast empire spread around the globe. On the pavement below, gigantic mosaics portray a compass with the map of the world charting the many routes taken by the Portuguese explorers and the lands they conquered.
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| Monument to the Discoverers | A short walk from the Discoveries Monument via an underpass took us to the Mosteiro dos Jeronimos or Jeronimos Monastery. Vaulted throughout, this building is touted as the ultimate symbol of Portugal's power and wealth during the Age of Discovery. It is a tribute to da Gama's pioneering voyage to India. The building took close to 100 years to complete and was funded by the taxes imposed on pepper and other Indian spices.
It was here that da Gama and his men spent their last evening in prayer before their historical voyage. Inside the Monastery is the great explorer's tomb. The building has magnificent cloisters. Each column has distinctive carvings - coils of rope, sea monsters, coral and other sea motifs. The architectural design is one of the great triumphs of European Gothic art and Unesco has classified it a World Heritage monument.
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| Frontal view of Mosteiro dos Jeronimos | The Belem riverside neighborhood offers many stunning sights. As you stroll along the riverfront, green stretches, a lighthouse and marinas come into view. We saw young couples with entwined hands and palms in a clasp, a shirtless man with a soggy cigar sitting patiently with a fishing rod - keeping an eye on two tiny kids playing with a ball. It was a scene redolent of peace and contentment, a huge contrast to home in bustling Bangalore. There were other such restful sights on our way to the charming 160-year old pastry shop, Confeitaria de Belem, famous since 1837 for its custard tarts made with crisp, flaky pastry.
The area's classic looks are changing. New shiny steel, glass and skyward-bound structures are rising. Everywhere we saw advertisements for English coaching classes. "Everyone wants to learn English!" said Senhor Juan, our guide. The new generation's penchant for the language is a sign of the globalized market, which even the fortress Torre de Belem seems incapable of stopping.
As we prepared to leave for the airport on our last day, I popped the question that had been working on my mind for a long time since we saw the statue, "Why do the Portuguese like Gandhi?" I asked Senhor Juan.
The man looked at me surprised, "Why? Gandhi is world citizen. You know we had dictators for long time. So this great man of peace and non-violence and democracy is much an inspiration to our people."
The Indian Diaspora in Portugal
Presently, it is estimated that there are 60,000 Indians residing in Portugal. Many of them are Goans, who came to Lisbon after India liberated Goa from Portuguese rule in 1961.
The early Goans who set sail for Portugal came from the well-educated elite who joined professions such as law, medicine and the civil service. Many Goan Catholic families sent their sons to join the seminary. In the 1990s, educated Goans with Portuguese and English skills, and armed with Portuguese passports began moving in primarily in search of economic opportunities. Today Goans, Damanese and Diuese enjoy a high standard of living, belong to the upper middle class and are well-respected members of Portuguese society.
Another major group of Indian immigrants are the Portuguese-speaking Gujaratis from Mozambique. After Lisbon rule ended in 1974, many of these Gujaratis took the long route to Portugal via the UK, Madagascar and South Africa. A strong community network has aided and sustained this flow. The traditionally hard-working Gujarati community has made a mark in trade and commerce, such as textiles, electronics, furniture, hotels, aviation, and in manufacturing. The 20,000-30,000 strong Hindu community has built elegant Radha Krishna, Shiva and other temples around the capital.
In the recent years, Indians have migrated, many from Punjab, to work in the building, construction and auto industries as well as in agriculture. Many Kaka da Punjab eateries and Indian restaurants have sprung up in the unlikeliest places. Yaar and "Obrigado easily co-exist in the dictionary of these new immigrants as they converse with one another in Gurmuki and engage the locals in accented Portuguese.
PROMINENT INDIAN PORTUGESE
ABDOOL KARIM MAGID ABDOOL VAKIL, Chairman, Banco Efisa.
RUI CARLOS PEREIRA, Minister of Internal Administration.
ANDRE GONCALVES PERIERA , former Foreign Minister.
ALBERTO COSTA, Minister of Justice.
NARAINA COISSORO, leader of the Opposition in the Portuguese National Assembly.
ALFREDO BRUTO DA COSTA, former Minister for Health & Social Welfare.
KANTILAL JAMNADA, Dan Cake Portugal.
Tejas Kakad, chairman of Minitabela Group.
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Vasco Da Gama's Voyage to India
Arguably, the greatest day in the Voyages of Discovery was July 8, 1497, when Vasco da Gama set sail to India. On that day, King John, his courtiers, and a great crowd gathered at the harbor. Amidst the rejoicing, there was a sad undercurrent. Tears and muffled sobs could not hide the apprehensions of families sending their young sons out to sea. Those who survived and returned from such voyages had horrifying tales to tell - of encounters with tempests and crushing gales, "fierce dark savage people and strange and terrible oceanic beasts."
True enough, a few days into his voyage, Vasco da Gama faced the sea's fury. Vital provisions were swept away by the storm. Starvation and other hardships followed. Grumbling, discontent and anger rose in the ranks. The crew felt that its leader had swung too far out West and put everyone at risk. The men wanted the commander to turn back home.
"But nay," vowed a determined da Gama, "If I saw an hundred deaths before mine eyes, yet would I sail right on. To India we shall go, or die."
The men rebelled and da Gama put down the mutiny and cast the mutineers overboard.
"I need neither pilot nor guide, but God alone," he thundered, "If so we merit it, He will lead us safely to our journey's end."
He dropped anchor at Africa's St Helena Bay, then looped around the Cape of Good Hope, crossing the Arabian Sea and arriving at Kodungalur on the Malabar Coast on May 20, 1498.
The Portugese presence and influence spread to Cochin, Cannanore, Goa and Bombay as they began trading in textiles, precious stones, pepper and spices. Jesuit priests set up educational institutions. India got its first printing press in Goa. Magnificent buildings and splendorous churches sprouted up in the fields.
A new sartorial code had local aristocrats donning western jackets, ties and dress shoes with the Indian dhoti. Pork vindaloo, xacuti, roast pigling, piri-piri, dodol, bebinca and such fusion food became a rage. New names such as Alvares, Braganza, Colaco and Pereira entered the Indian lexicon. Tongue twisters such as Maria Louisa de Lourdes Figueiredo de Albuquerque came to be pronounced at baptismal ceremonies. A range of new instruments, such as the guitar, violin, and drums brought the music of Iberia for holy celebrations, dances, entertainment and social occasions.
GOA EMBRACED A NEW LIFE |
| Belem's Attractions
TORRE de BELEM- The fortified tower of Belem, the city's icon.
DISCOVERIES MONUMENT- The world's explorers in stone, a symbol of the Age of Discovery.
COACHES MUSUEM - The world's largest collection of magnificent royal coaches.
MARITIME MUSUEM- The story of Portugal's pioneering role in world exploration at the sea.
ARCHAEOLOGY MUSUEM - Archaeological finds from over the centuries.
BELEM CULTURAL CENTER - Modern cultural center with regular exhibitions and events.
DESIGN MUSUEM - One of the world's leading design collections.
TROPICAL GARDEN - Beautiful garden with rare plants from around the world.
BELEM PALACE - The home of Portugal's President.
MEMORIA CHURCH - Elegant neoclassical church.
AJUDA PALACE - An extravagant royal palace.
JUDA BOTANICAL GARDEN - Beautiful gardens overlooking the river.
25 de ABRIL BRIDGE - Golden Gate's twin sister.
DOCAS - Attractive dock area with cosmopolitan bars and restaurants.
CRISTO RE/ MONUMENT TO CHRIST - Christ opens His arms to the city.
MOSTEIRO DOS JERONIMOS -Jeronimos Monastery, Seminary an& Vasco da Gama's resting place.
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-Ms Alamelu Roy
Thanks for the many tips, Editor and kudos to your writer for putting together an imaginative and romantic travelogue.
Celina P. Varghese
Sherman Oaks, CA 91302
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