From kasida to dabka, lace and even buttons, style, this season, is about how you decorate your garment.
Shadow work mixed with buckles, buttons on sleeves, texturing, edging, appliqué with distressed edges, crystals on laser work, zardozi, gota, pin-tucks, pleats, smocking, layers. If there is a God of fashion, it is clearly in details this festive season and moreover intent on mix and match.
Says Priya Awasty, the designer who is brought out her bridal prêt collection for fall-winter, "It is a trend internationally and now boundaries are blurred as far as regional and national looks go."
She adds, "We had zardozi even 1000 years ago. Today embroidery has become a generic part of Indian couture. Using the metallic look with zari or hreflective surfaces for embellishment is India's contribution to the world."
Says Awasty, "Earlier one embellishment was enough. A woman in Bengal would painstakingly do kantha for a good 8-9 months on a saree before taking it out for an occasion. Today even that is mixed with abla, sequins and mirror work. It is evolution."
Says designer Narendra Kumar Ahmed who has developed prints inspired by the art deco buildings of Marine Lines in Mumbai, "I wanted to have clothes hreflective of each area of the city. We have combined pitta metal thread work with prints, matted it with sequins and still ensured that it does not become too heavy for a sports jacket."
Sense in their sensibilities is the sign of a maturing fashion industry, even as it decides the pedestal-worthiness of the designer.
Says designer Ashish Soni, the minimalist designer who is bringing out the seams of his men's jackets, tearing up edges of appliqué flowers before putting them on skirts and with it still managing understatement, "Ten years ago perhaps I would not have been done all this. With the designer, the market has evolved and so has the customer."
Everything may not be in its place but clutter isn't necessarily the alternative.