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| Hot
& Cold |
By
Lavina Melwani |
| The hottest new thing
on Indian grocery shelves is frozen food.. |
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Over
22 million Indians have migrated to different
parts of the world, but there's another
migration that's taking place and few
people have realized just how momentous
it is. The mass migration of millions
and millions of samosas, kachoris, dosas
and idlis - made in India and quick frozen
- delivered to your door in California,
London or Dubai, almost as fresh as those
made by your dear Amma!
Who would have thought that there would
be a virtual kitchen in your freezer?
It's indeed a Cold Revolution - walk into
any Indian grocery store in the United
States and you will be amazed by the variety
in frozen dinners with everything from
gourmet specialties like Paneer Hariyali
to Malai Kofta to Uttappam.
Some of the major manufacturers and distributors
of frozen Indian food in the United States
include Deep Foods, headquartered in New
Jersey, House of Spices and Rajbhog Foods
in New York, Raja Foods in Chicago, Dishanka
Gourmet Imports in Texas and Kostos International
in California.
Each is doing its bit in getting frozen
ready to eat dinners, ice-creams and snacks
to hungry and harried South Asians across
America - and some are even winning over
converts from the mainstream. And they
are certainly ringing it up at the cash
register - frozen foods are a cash cow.
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While the Indian frozen
foods comprise just a small part of the
multibillion-dollar American frozen food
industry, the sales figures are quite
respectable. According to Neil Soni, vice
president of House of Spices, "Wholesalers
to retailers, it's possibly a $15 million
market, while for the retailers it could
be a $25 million market. It's a good component
with lots of growth opportunities."
Soni believes that with the tight scheduling
of working families, time is at a premium
and so the Indian market is evolving into
what the mainstream consumers already
expect from their supermarkets. |
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Few mainstream
customers would go to a supermarket to
buy flour to make bread from scratch;
in the same way many Indian consumers
are skipping the raw material to get the
ready-made chappatis and naans because
everyone's so time-deprived.
House of Spices is a major distributor
of several brand names from India, including
products like Vadilal frozen vegetables
as well as ready-to-eat dinners like Vadilal's
Sarso ka Sag, Bhindi Masala, Dum Alu,
Punjabi Chole, Dal Makhani and Navratan
Korma. It also imports frozen snacks like
samosas and kachoris under its own brand
name Lakshmi, and the Lakshmi line is
expanding to include more South Indian
snacks, because Soni feels there is a
big demand from the South Indian community
which hasn't been met.
Probably the biggest player in frozen
foods is Deep Foods, which actually manufactures
most of its frozen items in the United
States. Pressed on the magnitude of the
demand frozen foods, Deep's Archit Amin
says, "You're still going to have
more basmati sales than frozen foods,
there's no doubt about it. The groceries
are still the No. 1 product that people
go to these stores for. What we do see
a pick up in is in entrees, not as much
as we'd like to see, but we do see a lot
of potential there." |
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Indeed, it must be hard for
Indian families to give up the cultural
tradition of cooking fresh food every day,
but in this new world you don't have the
retinue of servants nor do you have the
time to always whip up an elaborate meal
from scratch, weeping as you chop the onions.
Amin is quick to defend the benefits of
frozen food: "Most Indian people have
the impression that frozen food is not fresh
and that's the biggest misconception. I
can't emphasize that enough." |
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He challenges people to offer Deep's Malai
Koftas along with restaurant malai koftas
in a blind taste test to guests. "Then
just be honest, have them tell you which
one they picked. If you do that you would
know what I'm talking about."
He says the freshest food you'll find in
the market is frozen unless you're going
to prepare it yourself. He adds, "Think
of what frozen really is, it's actually
time-trapped and frozen. Frozen in time
and you're not going to get anything fresher
then that."
For most manufact-urers of frozen food,
that probably is the challenge, to convince
Indian consumers that they can get a premium
dish for a few dollars instead of goiing
to a good restaurant for that taste. In
its light hearted advertisement, Deep Foods
has tried to convey that message: you see
a bachelor eating a frozen dinner and as
he takes each successive bite, the room
is transformed into a fancy restaurant and
he morphs every step of the way as he gets
five star treatment.
As Indian families adapt American lifestyles
with both spouses working and the children
involved in scores of extra-curricular activities,
there's less time to prepare food. Says
Amin, "Most households that I talk
to are eating more out than not; it doesn't
have to be that way. There is an in-between
way and you don't have to spend that kind
of money nor do you have to spend time cooking."
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Deep Foods has a 100,000
square feet facility in Union, NJ, where
it produces several lines - Mirch Masala,
Deep and Curry Classics, as well as the
Green Guru International Cuisine line.
It also distributes other frozen food
lines such as Maharani and Kawon Malaysian
parathas.
The company first started its frozen
foods business by manufacturing Reena
Cce Cream with such Indian flavors as
pistachio and mango. Amin recalls, "The
Indian community was growing so we realized
there was a need.
We recognized that more and more couples
were working and had less time to spend
in the kitchen.Now we get so much fan
mail saying that these meals are a lifesaver."
The company, which was started in 1977,
today churns out 20,000 frozen meals in
each shift. "One of the newest things
we are doing is we've actually put up
a facility in India for making items that
are hand-made and we are proudly employing
about 300 people in Gujarat," says
Amin. |
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So now we have the outsourcing of samosas!
He says the products made in their manufacturing
facility in India are imported into the
United States, but are also produced for
consumption in the homeland. We use the
same USDA and FDA guidelines since Deep
has been in the U.S. business for over
20 years. We use only Bisleri water- bottled
spring water in our plant in India and
fresh Indian flour. It's been a great
experience and the people are simply wonderful
there."
Another big player is Raja Foods, based
in Skokie, Ill, a suburb of Chicago. The
company has been in business since 1992
and imports frozen foods from India under
the Swad label. According to Swetal Patel
of Raja Foods, Swad has the largest variety
of frozen vegetables in the market, especially
ethnic products like tindora, papdi lilva,
valor papdi, chauri and tandal jo ni bhaji,
which is a leafy root vegetables which
is a part of traditional Gujarati cuisine.
These come fresh from the farms in Gujarat
and are much easier to prepare since they
are already cleaned and cut.
Says Swetal Patel, "All you need
to do is heat your oil, put the vegetables
in and ten minutes later, and it's done.
For people who are looking to make authentic
dishes this is great. Fresh produce may
be available here, but only in certain
seasons and may be more expensive."
Another example he gives is that of drumsticks,
which if fresh, could go for about $4.99
a pound, since they have to be flown in
from the Dominican Republic; the frozen
drumsticks from India retail from $1.39
to a $1. 99. He says, "The price
point is very attractive. There are certain
cities were fresh is not so easily accessible
and frozen products become a solution."
The owners of Raja Foods also have a
chain of Indian grocery stores and five
restaurants in Illinois, and the chefs
formulate many of the entrees for the
frozen line. He says, "If you had
the Swad Dal Makhani and restaurant Dal
Makhani, you'd probably pick ours over
it. |
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And
at $1.99 you can't go wrong - it takes
five minutes to make."
Asked to identify the best-selling the
products in Chicago, Patel lists the Swad
frozen samosas, kachoris and the Asian
Indian spring rolls - people tend to stock
up on them as Diwali approaches. Currently
Raja Foods is making more shelf-stabilized
dinners than frozen, but will be adding
several new products in a month. |
Says Patel, "Other
players often job it out to people but
we have our own facilities in India. Our
best bread is going to be something we
discovered in Delhi, called the Papad
Paratha, a paratha with papad inside it.
Trust me, it's unbelievable!
We're also coming out with paneer and
potato wraps. These will be great for
people on the go, like college students
and the taste is really good. It's solid
Indian paneer which tastes delicious."
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player in the frozen food business is
Rajbhog, Inc., established in New York,
and whose name is synonymous with sweets
and snacks. Sachin Mody, one of the owners,
says, "For us, the frozen foods was
a new line we started about two years
ago, but it has significantly increased.
The demand is there, basically both husband
and wife are working. The younger generation
has grown up and they are all working,
and even the ones who are married are
both working. So for them, this is a fast
way to eat."
Rajbhog manufactures about 45 frozen
items from matter paneer to Punjabi chole
to party samosas, and all their frozen
entrees and appetizers are manufactured
in New York in an 18,000 square foot factory
and are shipped all over the United States.
Modi emphasizes that companies are also
doing a lot of volume on raw frozen vegetables
from India. "We sell about 16 varieties
of frozen vegetables, like cut okra, tindora,
papri lilva and blocks of methi and everything
is cut and cleaned already." He says
the vegetables, immediately after being
picked on the farms, are cut and flash
frozen.
Undhiyu, a traditional Gujarati item
that is an authentic mix of Indian vegetables
and many different beans, is one of Rajbhog's
dishes. Says Mody, "There are people
who like Undhiyu, but their wives don't
know how to make it. Our whole concept
when we started making frozen food was
like bringing mother's food back into
your home."
Rajbhog is also marketing another line
of frozen foods, Bombay Kitchen, which
is geared to the health conscious and
mainstream taste. The entrees like baigan
bartha and navratan korma are low fat,
low sodium and low spice and will be available
shortly.
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Out
in California, Kostos Internat-ional entered
the frozen foods arena seven years ago
with its Vegis brand of parathas, which
until then had only been available in
the form of Malaysian parathas. Vegis
Homestyle Gourmet Foods include specialized
breads like naan, Toast-A-Roti, paratha,
chapatti, poori and flaky parathas. While
some of the Vegie breads are made in an
automated bakery in California, the majority
of the products come from India. The lineup
includes five types of naan - garlic,
onion, Sher -e-Punjab, tandoori and roghani.
This is a truly global world and Pillsbury,
the American company, is actually making
naans in India, and Kostos International
is national distributor for the Pillsbury
line. So why is Pillsbury's Doughboy,
usually busy with cakes and pastries,
making frozen naans and parathas? Says
Kostos Vice President Jay Parikh, "Pillsbury
has many ethnic lines, and one of them
is Indian.
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Though it's an American
company, the outfit which manufactures
the frozen flat breads is completely Indian.
They have a factory near Bombay and they
have the experts in the field of Indian
food and that's how they developed the
recipes." Pillsbury has seven frozen
products coming into the United States
- a ready to puff roti, spring onion parathas,
layered Malabar parathas, Adraki Alu parathas,
tawa whole wheat parathas, stuffed spicy
alu masaledaar naan and a paneer-filled
naan.
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more variety than you see in the breadbaskets
of many Indian restaurants! Kostos International
distributes to 1,300 stores nationally,
mostly Indian and Pakistani, and some
Middle Eastern stores. Says Parikh: "We
have a few mainstream outlets at the moment.
Indian foods are not as famous as Chinese
and other foods, but are getting known,
and the frozen samosas and spring rolls
are very popular."
So America is finally waking up to the
joy of zapping a microwave button and
retrieving sizzling malai koftas in minutes!
Why so late in the day in the United States,
when the Brits have long made Indian food
a national favorite, available in the
frozen and chilled sections of mainstream
stores like Mark and Spencer's and Selfridges?
"Well the American market is only
30 years old," says Neil Soni. "The
English market has been around ever since
England occupied India. They've been exposed
to the Indian culture so that market is
almost a 100 years old. On top of the
millions of South Asians in the UK who
are eating Indian food consistently, there
is a 100 million population where 50 percent
of the people are exposed to Indian food.
There may be a demographic of 50 million
people who like Indian food."
He points out that even in a cosmopolitan
city like New York there might be many
affluent Americans who don't know about
Indian food and don't want to try it because
they've never been exposed to it. He says:
"I think there's a very big opportunity,
but it has to be marketed properly. Right
now I find that only the younger, college
educated Americans - from the ages of
18 and 25 have the most potential to try
Indian food."
Swetal Patel of Raja Foods says of the
chilled foods that are such a rage in
London:
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"More than frozen,
they have what is called chilled foods.
When you go to the deli here in American
stores you really are finding a lot of the
same products you found 30 or 40 years ago.
It hasn't really evolved but in London because
of the Indian influence these foods are
readily available."
He says that the Indian influence hasn't
been here that long while Chinese and Italian
foods have been here much longer. "Italian
food finally made it to the deli counter
about seven years ago and Chinese food is
slowly making its way - so it's going to
be some time before Indian food make it
to the chilled section.
You've got to remember England is about
the size of Illinois so to distribute food
like that is simple. There's no complication.
Here's it's a monster, we have four time
zones!" |
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the thought of massive amounts of vegetables
traveling from farms in Gujarat and ready
to eat entrees from factories in the heat
of India all the way to America is mind-boggling,
for the product has to be frozen at all
times to maintain its quality. So what are
the logistics of getting this food to consumers?
Swetal Patel of Raja Foods says: "It's
not the infrastructure in India as that
of the European shipping companies. They
have refrigerated containers, so it's produced
frozen, packed frozen, shipped frozen, delivered
frozen."
He finds that in India the frozen trend
has not yet caught on with consumers and
people tend to eat fresh. One of the stores
he visited had just one small freezer while
as he explains, all the Patel Brother grocery
stores in the United States are equipped
with large freezers: "As a company
we've invested the most amount of money
in freezers. Any new store we open, we put
in $100,000 worth just in freezers."
The appropriate equipment is vital to the
success of the business and as Archit Amin
of Deep Foods says, "We have huge freezers
that take the temperature of the product
down to negative 40 degrees in 45 minutes.
We do about 20,000 trays in a shift daily
and 50 foot freezer trailer trucks take
it across the country to the distributors."
The frozen food revolution is happening
mainly because of great transportation,
but a huge infrastructure is needed in this
country as well. Swetal Patel says that
a lot has to be invested in the freezers
and they have 6000 sq foot freezers in both
their facilities in Chicago and New York:
"The initial investment in the units
isn't that much, but the cost to run them
on a monthly basis can be $6000 a month."
So with all the costs and transportation,
is it worth all the trouble, bringing frozen
foods in from India? Says Swetal Patel,
"Oh, yeah, why not? Everyone's still
making a profit. Trust me, it would have
been dead in the water if it weren't profitable!"
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he thought of selling to the mainstream?
He says, "Raja Foods is a company which
sells to many supermarkets in the country
- Whole Foods, Jewel and AP. However the
whole frozen aspect as a business is new
to us and selling frozen to supermarkets
isn't as easy as everyone thinks. It costs
more to do business with supermarkets." |
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Sagar
Patel of Asianfood company.com, an Internet
wholesaler and retailer in Houston, has
taken the frozen foods online, sending out
frozen foods throughout the United States
and to countries like Canada and the U.K.
"What we try to do is target the market
from both sides with mostly Indian products
but also mainstream products, ranging from
bagels to desserts."
The company has warehouse and freezer facilities
and partners with various distributors selling
every brand from Ashoka to Deep Foods and
Pillsbury. The main alliance is with Dishaka
Gourmet Imports in Houston, who are the
manufacturers and distributors of Chirag
brand of food items. |
"We've been around for
just one and a half years and the majority
of my clients are non-Indian, " says
Sagar Patel. "We recognized that the
only reason mainstream customers do not
buy Indian products is because they don't
know what to do with them.
So we've developed a process where people
can contact us off our website and we have
people on our staff who will actually walk
the customers through the ingredients and
the processes in which they can use the
foods." |
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The frozen
products are sent out to retail customers
by Fed Ex, using dry ice and specially manufactured
containers. Has the demand gone up with
Indians? Says Sagar Patel, " I would
say so, definitely, but the Indian market
is a little bit harder for us to break in.
I think there will still be time needed
for the adaptation process to happen, because
there are so many grocery stores for Indian
products in American cities now."
Asianfoodcompany.com finds more potential
in the affluent mainstream market that chooses
to look at Indian food as gourmet. Patel
says that in the course of a year, business
has grown risen ten fold. He adds: "We
see a lot of business for frozen food, currently
it accounts for 40 percent of what we send
out. It's popular with the mainstream; they've
had Indian food in restaurants and they'd
like to be able to recreate it at home but
if they can't, the next best thing is to
be able to buy it."
Presently most of the frozen entrees are
vegetarian but Deep Foods' Curry Classics
line has several chicken entrees too, including
chicken curry, pad thai, basil curry, samosas
as well as Tandoori chicken with spinach.
Considering that India has such a vast variety
of non-vegetarian and seafood dishes, the
surface has barely been scratched in replicating
these for the frozen sector.
Interestingly enough, all the large manufacturers
that Little India spoke to have the second
generation involved in the family business
- and surely these American born and educated
entrepreneurs will be all the more receptive
to innovative ideas and new challenges.
So the next time you're on deadline and
have no time to cook and don't have the
desire to eat yet another turkey sandwich
or slice of pizza, holler for your invisible
personal chef. No need to chop and cut;
all the exercise your fingers have to do
is open up the boxes and zap the microwave
button.
Huge succulent samosas stuffed with cheese
and jalapeno peppers, plates of steaming
daal makhani, palak paneer and an array
of crisp parathas, rotis and naan. Or perhaps
you'd prefer fluffy idlis, golden dosas,
uttampams and some spicy rasam? No problem,
it's all in the box.
Spread out your fit for a king feast on
the dining table and then say a silent prayer
of thanks to your Indian grocer!
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